Marfa, Revisited: What’s New for Fall 2026
Marfa has changed, and so have I. After 15.5 months away (plus one glorious 100km ride for the annual Marfa 100) here’s what’s new, what’s back, and what’s only gotten better in our Fall 2026 update.
First, an Overture (as Ever)
My love for Marfa is well documented. Who else would write the equivalent of a novel for a 48-hour guide?
This October, I had the chance to return to Marfa after what may have been my longest time apart since moving to Texas some 10 years ago: 15.5 months.
I didn’t even realize it, because Marfa remains so present as an identity in my life.
But the reality is, life has taken me to some amazing places and personal journeys in that time. I left Marfa at the end of June 2025 saying goodbye to what I thought was just one chapter - El Cosmico’s closing of its original grounds and concept - but it was in fact the closing (and renewal) of many chapters since: changing roles, relationships, the growing potential of moving from Texas after over a decade, and better coming into myself as a person.
So, when the not-to-be-missed Marfa 100 announced it would hold its annual ride once again in mid-October, I knew there was no better reason to return than to cross a big part of my Texas chapter off the bucket list: completing the full 100km. (A key part of the original guide’s Field Notes under “What to Look Forward To.”. Consider it looked forward to!)
I wouldn’t trade those rough-and-tumble tent stays, but rustic walls and a roof? This is the good life.
My humble origins in Marfa - namely glamping under the stars (and a heated blanket) in one of El Cosmico’s semi-spartan tents, checking my bed and boots daily for spiders, snakes, and critters - were kindly replaced this time with one of the most beautiful Airbnbs I’ve had the pleasure of staying in.
Unexpectedly, it even looked out over the Marfa water tower, which made for an ideal spot to work, reflect, and recuperate from riding the 60+ miles which, fortunately, I managed although not to the delight of my body the next day…
So, yes, much has changed since my last visits and - as is always the case - much has changed in Marfa itself, making this supplemental update guide worth penning (from outside the always wonderful Stop & Read, no less).
Without even more of the ado, here’s what to know, expect, and enjoy on your upcoming travels to Marfa, TX.
What’s Old Is New Again
Capri for swanky cocktails and bites
Capri
Thu-Sat evenings | caprimarfa.com | 603 W San Antonio St, Marfa, TX 79843
One of my favorite places in the world, Capri, is back as a proper kitchen and bar, with the ambience, aesthetics, cocktails, and bites that make it feel like you’ve stepped into a swank spot in San Francisco more than tumbled into a remote desert town.
After years of testing and teasing a reopening (its pop-ups made the Bonus Notes of my original guide, fingers firmly crossed), it is phenomenal to see The Capri alive and well once again. Reservations are recommended: The Capri Reservations.
What to get: A rotating menu bring no end to the great options to explore. Favorites (when offered) include the blue corn flatbread and scallop crudo. Pair with the “Six Figure” cocktail and you’re in for an enchanted evening.
Among My Souvenirs for a Stetson and a bolo tie
Among My Souvenirs
Open daily, 11am-5pm | amongmysouvenirs.co | 122 N Highland Ave, Marfa, TX 79843
Where Communitie stood now stands Among My Souvenirs. Featuring a (similarly great) range of cowboy hats pearl snaps, bolo ties, bandanas, western wear, and beyond - you’ll find all you need to set yourself up well for life in West Texas in this wonderful boutique, renamed and revamped under new ownership.
The Pony for local pool hall vibes
The Pony
Tue-Sun eves | thepony.bar | 306 E San Antonio St, Marfa, TX 79843
I touched on it in my original Marfa guide, but it’s worth a deeper note of appreciation after visiting for the Marfa 100 after party on this trip: The Pony continues giving life to Marfa’s long-loved dive bar. Sure, it has a new (and frankly perfect) name, but what was once the Lost Horse Saloon remains just as much the fantastic dive / pool hall this spot has always been known for.
Great for a cold drink, hanging around the outdoor fire pits, and catching live music. Don’t let the outside demeanor scare you off - it’s even divier on the inside (in the best ways).
Hotel Paisano gets new owners and a remodel
Hotel Paisano
hotelpaisano.com | 207 N Highland Ave, Marfa, TX 79843
Undergoing an extensive remodel under new owners as I write this, the Hotel Paisano (one of the suggested stays in my first guide) is set to (quite literally) shine even brighter as it nears a century since opening in 1930. Current estimates have the bar reopening later in October 2026, the restaurant in early 2027, and the hotel rooms in Spring 2027 - as their site notes.
Noticeable already is the sign on the roof which, once again, softly glows a beautiful crimson at night. I’m looking forward to seeing and staying at the Paisano once it reopens!
New(ish) Spots Not to Miss
Awesome Street Beverage Lounge for early eve drinks (NA very much included)
Awesome Street Beverage Lounge
Wed-Sat, 2pm-9pm | IG: @awesomestreetmarfa | 201 E Dallas St, Unit 3, Marfa, TX 79843
Opened early August and right around the corner from The Pony, Awesome Street Beverage Lounge transforms what was previously a chill coffee spot into a tucked-away bar. With a well-curated list of wines, beers, and premade libations - plus a very respectable non-alcoholic list - Awesome Street is where you’re going to find locals hanging out in the early eve before dinner. (It closes at 9pm, so think of it as the first drink of the night, not the last.)
Don’t miss the indoor fireplace- a carryover from the former cafe!
Mutual Friends Coffee + Dirty Water Bagels for your morning fix
Mutual Friends Coffee + Dirty Water Bagels at Otherside
Wed-Sun, 7:30am-2:30pm | IG: @mutualfriendsmarfa | 110 E El Paso St, Marfa, TX 79843
By night, Otherside (as featured in the original guide) is local Marfa’s go-to late-night hang. By day, Otherside becomes a great spot for breakfast (or brunch), with Mutual Friends Coffee behind the bar and Dirty Water Bagels on the menu - a combination that makes this spot an absolute oasis in town.
Beyond the bagels, you can grab their pastry and taco options too - but be warned, they can run out fast on a busy day. Quite possibly Marfa’s best kept secret for now!
What to get: Plain, Everything, and Sesame Bagels are the usual daily options. Grab a sesame extra toasted and don’t miss the long list of spreads and schmears avail. And grab a slice banana loaf too for good measure. Thank me later.
Jacko’s for wood-fired pizza in the courtyard
Jacko’s Pizza
Wed-Sun, 12:00pm-9:00pm | IG: @jackos.pizza | 203 E San Antonio St, Marfa, TX 79843
Filling the void left by the closing of Para Llevar - and moving into its old spot on San Antonio Street - Jacko’s is a welcome addition to Marfa’s pizza scene, making its sourdough from scratch and offering the same blissful outdoor courtyard seating that made Para Llevar my go-to ritual on arriving in town.
Great for lunch or dinner, just be sure to check the front door or call ahead to make sure they’re not sold out for the day. It happens! (More on that below.)
(On a related note, I’m glad to say the always delightful Se Vende, just around the corner, remains open! As with the original guide, I highly suggest you discover it without reading too much ahead.)
Dopo for exquisite Sicilian slices and a spritz
Dopo
Thurs-Sun, 12:00pm-4:00pm | IG: @dopo.tx | 1210 W San Antonio St, Marfa, TX 79843 (right next door to Bordo)
Speaking of Marfa’s pizza scene, wow. The team behind my absolute favorite sandwich shop (genuinely in the world, not just Marfa), Bordo, has expanded their Italian presence in town with a new spot right next door called Dopo.
Specializing in Sicilian pizza, drool-worthy pastries (did someone say cannoli?), and of course the same cherished spritzes Bordo does so well, Dopo may just be my new favorite way to mark my arrival in town. Best of all, they’re open till 4pm as of writing - a nice extension on Bordo’s 3pm close most days if you’re rolling into town on the later side.
What to get: Grab the basil pizza and a slice of pepporoni and admire the beautiful button of mozzarella on top afixed with a leaf of basil. Pair with the spritz and - a must - finish with a cannoli. Buon appetito!
La Muerta Taqueria at Planet Marfa for a mid-afternoon bev and bite
La Muerta Taqueria at Planet Marfa
Tues-Sat, 3:00pm-11:00pm and Sun, 3:00pm-10:00pm | IG: @lamuertamarfa | 200 S Abbot St, Marfa, TX 79843
In just one bite you’ll see why these tacos earn their name! The always wonderful Planet Marfa (featured in original guide) now features a taqueria worthy of its early buzz alongside its existing kitchen. Started a few years back and now nestled into Planet Marfa, La Muerta Taqueria has a wide variety of fresh offerings - chips and queso, elote, street tacos, etc. - that pair all too well with a drink and a basket of peanuts.
On an otherwise quiet mid-afternoon in Marfa - that stretch when the morning and lunch spots have closed and the dinner spots have yet to open - Planet Marfa is always the buzzy place to be.
Scratch that, Planet Marfa is always the place to be.
What Remains, Only Better
Fortunately, the many places I wrote about in the original guide still stand - which is why writing this one, as a supplement, makes me just overjoyed. Yes, Marfa will always be changing, so you can imagine my delight at returning a year and some months later to find all the things I once loved still here, only better with welcomed new additions and refinements.
If there’s one thing that remains - although in much smaller pockets these days compared to my first few visits so long ago - it’s the perpetual beauty of inconvenience. That might mean no cell reception at your Airbnb, or places closed for any number of reasons (private event, sold out, or just not open despite the advertised hours) with zero notice (and certainly no digital notice).
As I stood at Planet Marfa on a beautiful Saturday afternoon sipping a Stone IPA and eating shelled peanuts - La Muerta just wasn’t open that afternoon, and Jacko’s had sold out for the day (to be fair, the Marfa 100 that morning sent a lot of famished cyclists into town, and I was one of them) - I was reminded of my very first visit to Marfa.
Back then, there just weren’t any food spots open at 3pm, so after the long, long drive in, I made my lunch of a basket or two of peanuts and sipped on my beer. Although back then the choice was Tecate, “dark or pale,” not the dozen domestics and imports on offer now… of which, oddly, Tecate in any variant is now sadly absent.
Long live the beautiful inconvenience of the slow, slow West.
Long live Marfa in every iteration.
P.S. Before you feel too bad for me, don’t worry - a visit the very next day to Planet Marfa greeted me with La Muerta Taqueria serving and cemented my love for their incredible street tacos.
Another brilliant sunset over Marfa and another brilliant trip complete.
—//—
Safe travels, explorer.
Our Marfa Field Notes (Fall 2026 Update)
Recap of what’s new, what’s back, and what to look forward to - extending our Original Guide’s recs:
Where to (Also) Eat: Dopo (Late lunch) · Jacko’s (Lunch or dinner, call ahead) · Mutual Friends Coffee + Dirty Water Bagels at Otherside (Breakfast) · La Muerta Taqueria at Planet Marfa (Mid-afternoon) · The Capri (Dinner)
Where to (Also) Drink: Awesome Street Beverage Lounge (Early eve + NA) · The Capri (Cocktails) · The Pony (Pool + live music) · Planet Marfa (Always)
What to (Also) Look Forward To: Hotel Paisano’s bar (later October 2026), its restaurant (early 2027), and rooms (Spring 2027) · El Cosmico’s return with a very new vision and location (2027) · Flying Island music fest (early Nov 2027)
Bonus Notes: Call ahead or scope out places before you count on it being open (events, odd hours, and being sold out happens often - esp. on event weekends)
What Else to Explore? The original 48 Hours in Marfa guide, which (fortunately) still mostly stands
Enjoy & Explore Well.
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